Vogue runway
The 9 Biggest Trends of Resort 2020
It’s been 60 days since Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri kicked off the Resort season in Marrakech. In that time, Vogue Runway has sent critics to 11 cities around the world to report on the collections. We’ve sat on the beaches of Malibu, the rooftops of Shanghai, and in the halls of the oldest museum in the world in Rome. We’ve seen collections by sunlight and flashlight—and at all hours of the day and night. The biggest takeaway (other than our lingering jet lag)? That Resort season is about fantasy, not reality. For a season so associated with sales—retailers typically allot sizable portions of their budgets to pre-collections, which sit on the sales floor longer than main collections—practicality, ease, and down-to-earth, wearable clothing took a backseat to fun.
The way we’re thinking of it, Resort 2020 is ushering in the era of extra. Maybe the dawn of a new decade has something to do with the fact that the nine trends we’re spotlighting here are not about blending in, but about standing up and standing out. From the sun yellow of Bottega Veneta’s leather shirting to the strict and cinched silhouette of Louis Vuitton’s future-retro corsets, the shades and silhouettes of Resort 2020 are uncompromising in their boldness. Even the most essential items have been transformed—see the ’80s-style, paper-bag waist, pleated trousers at Isabel Marant, and the rich brocade safari jackets at Prada. The message is: You have enough beige trenches, too many navy suits. As we leap into the future, take a risk, and try out some clothing that will do the most.
A May-December Dress
Resort collections will arrive in stores in winter, making the prevalence of white dresses in eyelet, lace, and silk seem a little strange at first. Is this the Midsommareffect, as we all wait with bated breath for the new Ari Aster thriller that positions traditional Swedish May queens as scream queens? Perhaps—fear has been trending—but the rise of the lovely LWD also highlights the internationality of luxury fashion. Customers from the Middle East, Australia, and Singapore are going to be clamoring for Dior’s airy frocks and Gabriela Hearst’s structured maxi dresses. Even those of us in cold-weather climates like to head somewhere hot in the winter. Now we’ll do it cloaked in the dreamiest of dresses.
Paper-bag It
Pleat-front pants are having a serious renaissance. No one deserves more credit for their comeback than Isabel Marant, whose high-rise, paper bag–waist trousers can make even the ’80s-averse consider the silhouette. Others, like Giorgio Armani and Colovos, are following suit, offering more relaxed takes on the shape for Resort. It might not be the easiest pant to pull off, but when it looks as free-spirited as these, it’s going to be pretty hard to resist.
All Bows Rise with the Tide
Resort is all tied up with ribbons, bows, and sashes. Just don’t call it the comeback of unabashed femininity—even if Erdem’s lovely dresses could make you give up pants for good. In the hands of female designers like Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy and Virginie Viard at Chanel, bows have a new, arty toughness. Sure, the romance is still there, but in optic black and white, these dresses come with a little bite.
Safari So Good
It’s been 50 years since Yves Saint Laurent popularized the safari suit on the Rive Gauche, giving Parisian women a mannish esprit with a dose of wanderlust. The look is back for Resort, seen in luxe brocades at Prada and Chloé and in smooth butter leather at Tory Burch. Consider the safari jacket a practical solution to 2020’s ongoing mini-bag obsession—with all these pockets, you might not have to carry a purse at all!
Hookup Culture
Corsetry in the age of #MeToo and female empowerment? You better believe it. Cinching, lacing, and boning are back thanks to architectural revivals from Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière and Olivier Theyskens. Yes, these bustiers are sexy. Flaunt your femininity with pride.
Wear Your Turmeric
Turmeric is everywhere: in your juice, in your salad, and now on your body thanks to burnt yellow fashion from Monse, Off-White, and Rosie Assoulin. Not only is the sunny hue an antidote to the tumult of the world, but it also carries wellness properties. As color therapist Constance Hart told us earlier in the year, “For the body, it’s a cleanser, and for the mind and emotions, it’s almost like pressing a reset button.” Consider these clothes for a fresh start in 2020.
Best Western
Lil Nas X will be proud to know his yeehaw agenda has reached the upper echelons of fashion. At Paco Rabanne, Balmain, and Etro, the glitzy freedom of the wild west radiated through fringe, beading, and even paillettes. Getting into the trend is as simple as choosing a suede jacket from Altuzarra or an easy print dress from Anna Sui—no Stetson required.
Zebra Crossing
Animal prints have become the new normal, and none are as compelling as zebra. Seen at Sacai, Prabal Gurung, and Adam Lippes, the animal stripes come in every color and on every kind of garment. It’s an easy way to add a wild edge to your basics—to remix a quote from The Dude on Sacai’s coolest tee, “That zebra print can really tie a look together.”
Club Scrawl
At Burberry, Riccardo Tisci invited his team to graffiti up a wall at HQ, and then he transformed that into a print for the Resort collection. That freehand spirit of collaboration and immediacy continued at Moschino, Stella McCartney, and Diane von Furstenberg, where inky splatter prints and hand-drawn graphics adorned posh trenches and casual tees. It’s a trend you could DIY, but why would you want to when the ready-to-wear options look this good?
The 2019 ANDAM Prize Goes to Christelle Kocher of Koché
If today we’re seeing a trend for nurturing young designers, fashion can thank Nathalie Dufour: Thirty years ago she pioneered the concept when she founded ANDAM (the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) in Paris. Neatly deflecting the limelight earlier this evening, Dufour simply offered, “The prize became unique in the world because it brings together important institutions, including two ministries, and all the major luxury groups. For our 30th anniversary it’s an incredible achievement.”
Tonight ANDAM disbursed nearly half a million euros to a handful of rising stars: Koché designer Christelle Kocher took home the grand prize of $280,000, which comes with a year’s worth of mentoring by Renzo Rosso. She will also be able to collaborate with Swarovski and use up to 10,000 euros worth of crystals in her next show. The creative label prize ($111,000) went to Nicolas Lecourt Mansion, a designer whose label is just one year old. The accessories prize ($56,000) went to Khaore’s Wei Hung Chen and Raiheth Rawla, who will receive mentoring from Hermès. And the fashion innovation award ($33,000) went to Cyndi Rhoades of Worn Again Technologies, a resource-recovery start-up that makes “old” raw materials new again.
Martin Margiela, the very first winner of the ANDAM Prize, served as president of the jury. Naturally he was in absentia for tonight’s ceremony, but the designer agreed to weigh in exclusively for Vogue via email: “Over the last three decades, ANDAM has proven brilliantly the relevance of its concept by instituting these prizes for talent and daring, both materially and logistically. Young designers all know how vital its support is!”
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Added Dufour: “I’m thrilled for Christelle because she has reached a level of maturity. This prize will give her the leverage she needs to expand internationally.”
“To me it’s particularly prestigious to win this year because Martin Margiela won it first, which makes it all the more magical in my eyes and can help a woman entrepreneur,” said Kocher. “I’m a free electron—I’m independent, and I’m serious about creative freedom and pursuing a vision that’s authentic and committed, and defending my idea of fashion. Today I believe that fashion has the power to affect positive change and champion the values Koché believes in, like inclusivity, diversity, openness, generosity. For me it’s very important to share those through creativity and fashion, which are my personal means of expression.” On her immediate agenda: several collaborations, two dance projects, encouraging other young designers—and building out menswear. “When something positive happens I feel like creating even more things,” she said.
Conjure Up a Little Dolce Vita With Giovanna’s New Summer Shoe
Leonora Giovanna Arslani didn’t know what she’d stumbled upon when she started digging through old family photo albums. Flipping through the sepia-tinted pictures of Italy in the 1950s, ’60s, and ’70s, she came across some that featured her great aunt Giovanna, after whom she was named. The half-Italian, half-Albanian Arslani was inspired by the fact that much of what her great aunt was wearing in the photos—plastic market bags, crochet-detailed peasant tops, and classic mules—were things that felt relevant to fashion today.
“I admired my great aunt’s style and unique, independent spirit,” Arslani says. “As a young girl, I visited her seaside home in Marina di San Nicola near Rome, and I remember being fascinated by the items in her closet and how she put things together so effortlessly.” Arslani took those memories of Aunt Giovanna’s wardrobe, along with the old photographs she’d discovered, and set out to design a collection that would “reflect the elements of her closet and recreate it for modern day.” This week, Arslani has launched her first collection of handwoven shoes under the label Giovanna. The colorful mules and sandals are made in Morocco and are available on the brand’s website, with prices ranging between $195 and $250.
Arslani, who currently works as the senior apparel designer at Lela Rose and Lela Rose Bridal, chose to manufacture the collection in Morocco because she fell in love with the country’s artistry of shoemaking while on her honeymoon a couple of years ago. “I purchased a few pairs of shoes while we were in Marrakech and once we got home, everyone kept asking where I got them and how they could get them,” she says. “I was inspired to design my own as a result, and I started reaching out to some of the artisans I’d met back in Morocco.”
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The connection between Morocco and Arslani’s Italian aunt may seem like a bit of a stretch, but, in fact, she wanted the shoes to feel slightly nomadic, like something a traveler would discover in a market or local shop. As Arslani says, “The shoes are the perfect first product for Giovanna’s closet. They are something she would have found on her travels and worn.” Much of what her great aunt wore was indeed collected from around the world. Arslani hopes to expand the Giovanna brand and incorporate more accessory items, including jewelry. Everything, she says, will be “chic, effortless, and a little funky.”
“Giovanna had many looks throughout the years and really changed with the decades, but she always managed to look classic and not too overdone.” She adds, “I like to think that Giovanna’s style is reflective of my summertime self: an alter-ego that is a little 1970s and a tad bohemian.”
Here’s a first look at the new Giovanna collection and a few inspiring images of the chic, la dolce vita–living woman herself.
Watch J Balvin Get Ready for the Dior Men’s Show, From Runway to Private Jet
J Balvin, his hair dyed sky blue with a rainbow streak running through it, looks out at the Eiffel Tower from his Parisian balcony. “C’mon, look at that,” he says, extending an arm toward the monument. “A Colombian in Paris—a Latina in Paris,” he laughs. The Medellín-born artist has built his career on Colombian reggaeton and still primarily sings in Spanish, but he’s become a bona fide global superstar. Just take his experience at Paris Fashion Week for the Spring 2020 menswear shows: He went straight from the Dior Men’s runway to the private jet tarmac to make his show in Morocco.
Dior Men’s new pastel-accented collection perfectly fit in with Balvin’s colorful style, so it’s only natural Balvin would sit front row at the show. “I love him [designer Kim Jones] so much. I just came to support,” says Balvin, but his interest in fashion goes beyond brands. “I love fashion, if I can call it fashion. I just like to represent myself,” Balvin says. “I need to represent my community to the world.” Watch Balvin as he brings his Colombian flair to the City of Light. He really does look ready for the runway, as he says so himself.
Director Talia Collis
DP Rachel Batashvili
Sound Kevin Bally
Editor Theo Rosenthal
DP Rachel Batashvili
Sound Kevin Bally
Editor Theo Rosenthal
Chanel’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to Coco’s Liaison With Russia’s Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich
Some love affairs, however short-lived, are life-changing. So it was with Gabrielle Chanel and the elegant, discreet Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, the cousin of Czar Nicolas II, who was sent into exile following the murder of Rasputin, the influential mystical advisor to the Russian imperial court. Their yearlong liaison from 1921 to 1922 was brief but intense, and though Chanel never set foot in Russia, she counted among her closest friends artists like Stravinsky and Diaghilev and borrowed freely from the imperial court’s artistic lexicon.
Some shapes—like the two-headed eagle on a Baroque mirror in Chanel’s apartment on the Rue Cambon—would find their way into the house’s legacy. Chanel even hired Russian nobility to work for her, taking a prince as a private secretary and convincing Dmitri’s sister, the Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, to open an embroidery workshop named Kitmir, thus securing an exclusive supply. It was also during those years that Chanel worked with the Czar’s perfumer, Ernest Beaux, to create the now legendary Chanel No.5.
The two-headed eagle returns in the new “Le Paris Russe de Chanel” haute joaillerie collection. For the first time, the house nods to Gabrielle’s flair for taking Russian inspirations and making them her own in a 69-piece opus in two parts, celebrating Russian splendor with allusions to the sun and military orders and, on the other hand, Russian folklore and richly colored fabrics. Chanel signatures such as the camellia and sheaves of wheat (a good luck talisman) are sprinkled throughout, with gems often rendered in the fairly obscure, vaulted ogive cut. Paris-Russe themes appear side by side in the “Solaire” necklace. Elsewhere, camellias are etched like lace on the transformable “Sarafane” headpiece, and the colorful gems on the transformable “Ble Maria” necklace—diamonds, sapphires, spinels, and tourmalines—recall Russian decorative arts. Here, an exclusive first look.
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